Ultimate Guide to Bugaksan Mountain Hiking: The Best Section of Seoul City Wall

Imagine walking along a 600-year-old fortress wall, past a pine tree scarred by 15 bullet holes, while panoramic views of Seoul unfold beneath your feet. This is Bugaksan Mountain, where the Seoul City Wall reveals one of Korea’s most compelling combinations of natural beauty, military history, and cultural tradition. Once forbidden to civilians for over four decades, the Bugaksan hiking trail now offers visitors an extraordinary journey through a landscape that witnessed one of the most dramatic events in modern Korean history.

Located directly behind Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bugaksan (북악산) stands at 342 meters as the highest of Seoul’s four inner mountains. The Seoul City Wall section that crosses this peak isn’t just a scenic hiking route—it’s a living museum where ancient defensive architecture meets Cold War espionage, where traditional Korean mountain culture blends with contemporary Seoul, and where every stone seems to whisper stories of dynasties, commandos, and presidents.

Table of Contents

• Why Bugaksan Mountain Offers the Best Seoul City Wall Experience
• The 1968 Raid: History Written in Bullet Holes
• Trail Details and What to Expect
• Access and Important Information
• Post-Hike Meal Tradition: Korean Hiking Food Culture
• Best Restaurants Near Bugaksan for Post-Hike Dining

Why Bugaksan Mountain Offers the Best Seoul City Wall Experience

The Seoul City Wall, known as Hanyangdoseong (한양도성), stretches approximately 18.6 kilometers around the historic center of Seoul, but the Bugaksan section delivers something other segments cannot match: exclusivity earned through history. While mountains like Inwangsan offer their own compelling hiking experiences, Bugaksan’s restricted past created an unintentionally preserved landscape.

From Changuimun Gate, the trail ascends steeply through stone steps alongside the meticulously restored fortress wall. Unlike urban hiking trails where development encroaches, Bugaksan maintained its wild character precisely because it was off-limits. The wall here stands in remarkable condition, with mason’s marks from the Joseon Dynasty still visible on stones laid in the 14th century.

At Baegangmaru (백악마루), the summit, hikers discover why this mountain earned its restricted status. The view encompasses not just Seoul’s modern skyline—N Seoul Tower piercing the horizon, the Han River snaking through the distance—but also a direct sightline to Gyeongbokgung Palace and what was once the Blue House presidential residence. This vantage point, so strategically valuable for defense, became the focal point of one of the Korean Peninsula’s most audacious military operations.

The 1968 Raid: History Written in Bullet Holes

On January 21, 1968, a unit of 31 North Korean commandos infiltrated Seoul through the mountain routes of Bugaksan, attempting to assassinate then-President Park Chung-hee in what became known as the January 21 Incident or the Blue House Raid. The commandos, members of Unit 124, had trained for two years for this single mission, memorizing Seoul’s streets and preparing to strike at the heart of South Korea’s government.

The operation failed catastrophically. South Korean police discovered the infiltrators, triggering a massive manhunt across Seoul’s northern mountains. In the firefight that followed, South Korean forces killed 28 commandos, captured one (Kim Shin-jo, who later became a South Korean pastor), while one escaped back to North Korea and became a general. The incident cost the lives of South Korean policemen, soldiers, and civilians, leaving a permanent mark on the nation’s psyche.

Today, approximately 200 meters past the summit, hikers encounter the January 21 Incident Pine Tree (1.21 사태 소나무), a roughly 200-year-old pine bearing 15 bullet holes from the gun battle. The tree stands as a silent witness, its scarred trunk a tangible connection to that winter day when Bugaksan became a battlefield. Information plaques explain the incident in Korean and English, though the bullet holes speak a universal language of conflict and survival.

This history explains why Bugaksan remained closed to civilians until 2007, reopening only after security concerns lessened. Even then, restrictions persisted—hikers originally needed passports for trail access, and certain sections remained forbidden. The Blue House’s location at the mountain’s base meant Bugaksan was essentially the president’s backyard, monitored by security forces and surveillance systems.

Blue House Hiking Trail: Current Status

The presidential context of Bugaksan has evolved significantly. When President Yoon Suk Yeol relocated the presidential office to Yongsan in 2022, the Blue House compound opened to the public for the first time in 74 years, and the Bugaksan trail behind it became accessible. Visitors could walk the very path presidents once strolled, enjoying views that were previously reserved for Korea’s most powerful officials.

However, this window is closing. In December 2025, newly elected President Lee Jae Myung announced plans to return the presidential office to the Blue House by Christmas, citing both traditional significance and the compound’s superior security features. Once the president returns, the Blue House hiking trail section—the path running directly behind the compound—will likely be restricted again for security reasons, just as it was for four decades after 1968.

This doesn’t mean Bugaksan will become entirely inaccessible, but the most exclusive section, offering direct Blue House views and access to the presidential grounds, faces renewed restrictions. Hikers who want to experience this historically restricted terrain should visit before the closure solidifies. The main Bugaksan trail from Changuimun Gate to Sukjeongmun Gate and down to Malbawi remains open, offering the Seoul City Wall experience, summit views, and the bullet-scarred pine tree without requiring Blue House access.

Trail Details and What to Expect

The standard Bugaksan hiking trail spans approximately 4.7 kilometers, typically requiring 2-3 hours depending on pace and photo stops. The route follows this general path:

Changuimun Gate Start: Most hikers begin at Changuimun Gate (창의문), also called Jahamun, one of Seoul’s four small fortress gates. From here, the trail immediately climbs alongside the restored Seoul City Wall. The ascent is steep—expect staircases and uneven stone steps—but rest areas with benches appear at regular intervals.

Cheongundae and the Summit: After about 40-60 minutes of climbing, you reach Cheongundae Rockface, a dramatic cliff offering sweeping views across northern Seoul. Continue another 15-20 minutes to Baegangmaru, the actual summit. The view here is extraordinary: Bukhansan National Park rises to the north, downtown Seoul spreads to the south, and the Seoul City Wall snakes along ridgelines in both directions.

January 21 Pine Tree: Descending from the summit toward Sukjeongmun Gate, watch for the bullet-scarred pine. The tree sits just off the main path, marked by signs explaining the 1968 incident. This section offers some of the best preserved wall architecture.

Sukjeongmun Gate: The only remaining north-side gate where the wall still connects on both sides, Sukjeongmun (숙정문) was entirely rebuilt in 1976. From here, trails descend either to Waryong Park or continue toward Samcheong-dong and Malbawi.

The terrain is moderately challenging. While you don’t need mountaineering skills, decent fitness helps navigate the sustained elevation gain and numerous stairs. The trail surface alternates between wooden boardwalks, natural dirt paths, and stone steps. Hiking boots aren’t essential, but sturdy athletic shoes with good grip are strongly recommended.

Season affects the experience significantly. Spring brings blooming forsythia and cherry blossoms; autumn transforms the mountainside into fiery reds and golds; summer can be hot and humid; winter occasionally brings snow, making the Seoul City Wall look particularly dramatic but requiring extra caution on potentially icy steps.

Photography restrictions remain in certain areas, particularly near remaining military installations. Signs clearly mark where photography is prohibited—respect these restrictions. Security cameras monitor the trail, a reminder of Bugaksan’s sensitive location.

Access and Important Information

Getting There: The most convenient starting point is Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3), Exit 3. From there, take bus #1020, #7022, or #7212 to the Jahamun Tunnel/Yun Dong-ju Literary Museum stop (약 7-8분). Changuimun Gate sits just a short walk from the bus stop.

Alternatively, walk from Gyeongbokgung Station to Changuimun Gate—approximately 1.5 kilometers, taking 20-25 minutes. The walk itself passes through the charming Samcheong-dong neighborhood, offering cafe stops and cultural sites.

Registration: Unlike the post-2019 period when registration was eliminated, current access may require showing identification if the trail status changes with the Blue House reopening. Check Seoul’s official fortress wall website for current requirements before visiting.

Operating Hours: Trail hours vary by season:

• Summer (May-August): 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM
• Spring/Autumn (March-April, September-October): 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
• Winter (November-February): 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM

The trail closes every Tuesday for maintenance and nature conservation—a standard practice across Seoul’s mountain parks.

What to Bring:

• Water (at least 1 liter per person)
• Snacks or light hiking food
• Sun protection (hat, sunscreen)
• Camera (respecting no-photo zones)
• Cash for post-hike meals
• Comfortable, grippy footwear

Post-Hike Meal Tradition: Korean Hiking Food Culture

Korean hiking culture embraces a tradition that might surprise international visitors: the post-hike meal, often called hasanju (하산주)—literally "descent alcohol." This isn’t just about refueling after exercise; it’s a social institution where the physical achievement of conquering a mountain merges with the communal pleasure of sharing food and drink.

Understanding this tradition elevates your Bugaksan experience from tourist activity to cultural immersion. After descending through Changuimun or Samcheong-dong, you join the flow of local hikers streaming toward nearby restaurants and cafes, ready to complete the hiking ritual properly.

Makgeolli: The Mountain Drink: No beverage embodies Korean hiking culture like makgeolli (막걸리), a milky, slightly sweet, lightly sparkling rice wine with about 6-8% alcohol content. Traditional and affordable, makgeolli has been the hiker’s choice for generations. Its refreshing quality, mild intoxication, and cultural authenticity make it perfect for celebrating a mountain conquered. Restaurants near mountain trailheads always stock makgeolli, often serving it in traditional brass kettles with matching cups.

Samgyetang: Ginseng Chicken Soup: One of the most popular post-hike meals is samgyetang (삼계탕), a whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, jujube, and garlic, then simmered until the meat falls off the bone. The hot, nourishing broth replenishes energy and warms muscles, making it especially popular during colder months. The ginseng provides a subtle earthiness while supposedly boosting stamina and immunity—perfect for tired hikers.

Jeon and Pajeon: Savory Korean pancakes (jeon, 전) frequently accompany makgeolli at mountain restaurants. Pajeon (파전), made with green onions and often seafood, offers a crispy-chewy texture that perfectly complements rice wine. The combination of hot, savory pancakes and cool, sweet makgeolli creates a flavor balance Koreans have perfected over centuries.

This post-hike ritual isn’t about gourmet dining—it’s about communal experience. You’ll see groups of hikers, still in their colorful technical gear, crowding around low tables, sharing bottles of makgeolli, laughing about the trail’s challenges, and already planning their next mountain conquest. Joining this tradition, even as a solo foreign visitor, connects you to something fundamentally Korean.

Best Restaurants Near Bugaksan for Post-Hike Dining

After your Bugaksan adventure, the neighborhoods of Samcheong-dong and Bukchon offer exceptional dining options that respect Korean post-hike traditions while showcasing Seoul’s culinary excellence. Here are the top choices, all within easy reach of the trailhead.

Tosokchon Samgyetang: If you’re craving authentic samgyetang, Tosokchon Samgyetang stands as Seoul’s most famous ginseng chicken soup destination. Located near Gyeongbokgung Palace (a short walk from Bugaksan’s southern approach), this restaurant has served presidents and celebrities while maintaining authentic preparation methods. The whole chicken arrives in bubbling broth, so tender the meat separates with chopsticks alone. After a mountain hike, this restorative soup hits perfectly.

Hwangsaengga Kalguksu: For those preferring noodles, Hwangsaengga Kalguksu, a Michelin-recommended restaurant, serves hand-cut knife noodles in rich, savory broth. The hearty portions and reasonable prices make it popular with locals, and the location near Gyeongbokgung makes it convenient for post-Bugaksan dining. The thick, chewy noodles provide exactly the carbohydrate boost exhausted hikers crave.

Muguok Samgyetang: Another excellent samgyetang option, Muguok in Samcheong-dong offers the perfect location if you descend Bugaksan’s eastern side. This restaurant delivers authentic ginseng chicken soup in the quieter Samcheong-dong atmosphere, where you can enjoy your meal while surrounded by traditional hanok architecture and art galleries.

Seochon Giwajip: Craving Korean BBQ? Seochon Giwajip specializes in bulgogi (marinated beef) and naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles). The bulgogi provides protein-rich recovery fuel, while naengmyeon’s refreshing quality makes it ideal for cooling down after a sweaty mountain climb. The Seochon location west of Gyeongbokgung Palace feels authentically Seoul, frequented more by locals than tourists.

Onmigwan Bulgogi: For traditional charcoal-grilled bulgogi, Onmigwan near the palace offers time-honored preparation techniques. The thinly sliced, marinated beef grills at your table, filling the air with that irresistible caramelized-meat aroma. Pair it with soju or makgeolli to complete the authentic post-hike experience.

Cheonha Bossam: If you’re interested in something different, Cheonha Bossam near Changdeokgung Palace serves boiled pork wraps—tender pork belly wrapped in fresh vegetables with fermented shrimp sauce. This lighter option satisfies without overwhelming, and the wrapping technique makes it fun and interactive.

Cafe Culture: Not every post-hike stop requires a full meal. Cafe Onion Anguk, housed in a beautifully renovated hanok, offers exceptional coffee and desserts in an Instagram-worthy setting. For traditional Korean tea, Osulloc Tea House in Bukchon provides matcha and traditional Korean teas in a sophisticated hanok environment. These cafes let you extend your cultural immersion while resting tired legs.

The area’s restaurant concentration means you can explore multiple options or choose based on your specific craving. The key is understanding that eating after hiking isn’t an afterthought in Korean culture—it’s an integral part of the mountain experience, equal in importance to the climb itself.

Frequently Asked Questions About Bugaksan Mountain Hiking

How difficult is the Bugaksan hiking trail?

The Bugaksan hiking trail is rated as moderate difficulty. The main challenges come from sustained elevation gain (about 200 meters) and numerous stone staircases rather than technical terrain. Most people with reasonable fitness can complete the hike, though those unused to stairs may find it demanding. The trail is well-maintained with railings where needed and rest areas throughout. Compared to Seoul’s more challenging mountains like Bukhansan, Bugaksan is significantly easier while still providing a genuine mountain experience.

Can I still hike Bugaksan after the Blue House reopens?

Yes, the main Bugaksan trail from Changuimun Gate to Sukjeongmun Gate will remain accessible even after the president returns to the Blue House. What will change is access to the specific path running directly behind the Blue House compound—the same section that was restricted for four decades after the 1968 incident. Hikers can still reach the summit (Baegangmaru), see the bullet-scarred January 21 pine tree, walk along the Seoul City Wall, and enjoy panoramic views. The core Bugaksan experience continues; only the most restricted presidential section faces renewed limitations.

What’s the best time of year to hike Bugaksan?

Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November) offer ideal conditions with comfortable temperatures and stunning scenery—cherry blossoms in spring, brilliant foliage in autumn. Autumn particularly shines for photography, with the Seoul City Wall framed by golden and crimson leaves. Summer (June-August) can be hot and humid, with occasional monsoon rains, though early morning hikes beat the heat. Winter (December-February) provides crisp, clear views and sometimes snow-dusted fortress walls, but requires extra caution on potentially icy steps. The trail closes every Tuesday year-round for maintenance.

Why is makgeolli the traditional post-hike drink in Korea?

Makgeolli became Korea’s quintessential post-hike beverage through a combination of practicality and cultural significance. Historically, this rice wine was cheap, widely available, and refreshing—perfect for working-class hikers. Its lower alcohol content (6-8%) provides pleasant relaxation without heavy intoxication, and its slight carbonation refreshes after physical exertion. The tradition also ties to Korean agricultural heritage, where makgeolli accompanied farmers after labor-intensive work. Today, sharing makgeolli at mountain restaurants represents communal bonding, a way to celebrate achievement and enjoy nature’s rewards together. The ritual of pouring for others, never yourself, reinforces Korean social values around hiking being a shared experience.

Plan Your Bugaksan Mountain Adventure

Bugaksan Mountain offers something increasingly rare in our modern world: a place where history isn’t confined to museums but lives in bullet-scarred trees, where political drama plays out across mountain ridges, where ancient fortress walls still define the landscape. The Seoul City Wall section crossing this peak delivers more than exercise and views—it provides a tangible connection to Korea’s layered past, from Joseon Dynasty builders to Cold War commandos to contemporary presidents.

Whether you’re drawn by the historical significance, the architectural beauty of the Seoul City Wall, or simply the promise of panoramic Seoul views, Bugaksan rewards every visitor. The trail’s moderate challenge makes it accessible while still feeling like a genuine accomplishment. The cultural experience of joining local hikers in the post-climb meal tradition adds authentic Korean flavor you won’t find in tourist guidebooks.

Visit Bugaksan before access potentially changes with the presidential return. Walk the path where history was made, touch stones laid 600 years ago, stand where commandos once fled, and see Seoul from the perspective of kings and presidents. Then descend to enjoy samgyetang or makgeolli, completing your hike the Korean way—with food, drink, and the satisfaction of a mountain conquered.

Planning to explore more of Korean mountain culture? Share your Bugaksan experience or favorite post-hike meal in the comments below.