Hwangtae and Ojingeo Bokkeum

Discover Authentic Hwangtae and Ojingeo Bokkeum at Choi-ga: Gangwon’s Hidden Culinary Gem

Nestled in the scenic coastal region of Gangwon Province, Choi-ga (최가) is a family-owned restaurant that has been serving some of Korea’s most beloved seafood dishes for generations. Located in Toseong-myeon, Goseong-gun, this hidden gem specializes in two signature dishes that exemplify the rich culinary heritage of Korea’s eastern coast: Hwangtae (황태, dried pollack) and Ojingeo Bokkeum (오징어 볶음, spicy stir-fried squid). While these dishes can be found throughout Korea, what makes Choi-ga special is their unwavering commitment to traditional preparation methods and locally-sourced ingredients that capture the essence of Gangwon’s distinct food culture.

The Art of Hwangtae: Gangwon’s Golden Treasure

Hwangtae isn’t just any dried fish – it’s a culinary treasure with deep roots in Gangwon Province’s cultural identity. The term "hwang" (황) means "yellow," referring to the golden hue the fish develops during its unique drying process. At Choi-ga, the Hwangtae preparation follows time-honored traditions that have been perfected over decades.

What separates Hwangtae from other dried fish varieties is its remarkable production method. Unlike conventionally dried seafood, genuine Hwangtae undergoes a specialized natural freezing and thawing process unique to mountainous regions like Gangwon. The pollack is caught in winter and hung outdoors where it experiences repeated freezing at night and partial thawing during the day, sometimes cycling through this process more than 20 times.

The owner of Choi-ga explains: "True Hwangtae can only be made in regions with specific climate conditions – cold mountain winds, clean air, and significant temperature variations between day and night. Here in Gangwon, particularly in areas like Inje’s Yongdae-ri, we have the perfect environment for creating the most flavorful Hwangtae."

This natural process results in dried pollack with an extraordinary texture – somewhat spongy yet pleasantly chewy – and an intensified, complex flavor profile that cannot be replicated through conventional drying methods. At Choi-ga, this premium ingredient becomes the foundation for several signature dishes.

What Makes Authentic Hwangtae So Special?

Hwangtae isn’t just delicious – it’s also renowned for its impressive nutritional profile and health benefits. Korean culture has long valued this ingredient not only for its taste but also for its medicinal properties.

Why is Hwangtae considered a superfood?

Hwangtae is rich in high-quality proteins and essential amino acids, particularly methionine, which supports normal liver function and helps eliminate toxins from the body. This explains why Hwangtae soup (Hwangtae-guk or 황태국) has long been a popular remedy for hangovers in Korea – it quite literally helps detoxify the liver.

At Choi-ga, the chef prepares Hwangtae in several traditional ways:

1. Hwangtae-guk (황태국) – A nourishing soup made by simmering rehydrated Hwangtae with radish, green onions, and garlic. The broth develops a rich, savory depth that’s simultaneously light and comforting. This dish exemplifies Korean comfort food at its finest.
2. Hwangtae-gui (황태구이) – Dried pollack that’s lightly brushed with perilla or sesame oil and grilled until the edges crisp slightly while the interior maintains its distinctive chewy texture. This method intensifies the fish’s natural umami character.
3. Hwangtae-muchim (황태무침) – Shredded Hwangtae mixed with vegetables and a light seasoning of Korean red chili, garlic, and sesame oil, creating a perfect side dish or accompaniment to Korean alcoholic beverages like soju or makgeolli.

What distinguishes Choi-ga’s Hwangtae dishes is their commitment to sourcing the highest quality dried pollack – specifically from the renowned Gangwon mountain regions where the climate conditions create superior Hwangtae – and preparing it with minimal seasoning to let the ingredient’s natural qualities shine through.

Ojingeo Bokkeum: The Perfect Balance of Spice and Seafood

The second star of Choi-ga’s menu is their Ojingeo Bokkeum (오징어 볶음), a vibrant, spicy stir-fried squid dish that showcases the bounty of the nearby East Sea. While Ojingeo Bokkeum is beloved throughout Korea, Choi-ga’s version stands out for its perfect balance of heat, sweetness, and the natural flavor of fresh, locally-caught squid.

What makes Choi-ga’s Ojingeo Bokkeum special?

The key to exceptional Ojingeo Bokkeum lies in three crucial elements: impeccably fresh squid, perfect cooking technique, and a well-balanced sauce. Choi-ga excels in all three areas.

First, they source their squid from local fishermen who bring in their catch daily from the East Sea, ensuring peak freshness. The squid is meticulously cleaned and scored in a diamond pattern, which not only creates an attractive presentation but also allows the sauce to penetrate the flesh and prevents the squid from curling too much during cooking.

Second, Choi-ga’s chefs understand the critical importance of cooking time. Squid must be cooked either very briefly over high heat (no more than 2-3 minutes) or for an extended period at low temperatures. At Choi-ga, they opt for the quick-cooking method, which preserves the squid’s tender texture and prevents it from becoming rubbery.

Finally, their sauce strikes an ideal balance between spicy, sweet, and savory elements. The foundation is gochujang (Korean red chili paste) and gochugaru (Korean red chili flakes), enriched with garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and a touch of sweetness from sugar or fruit-based sweeteners. The vegetables – typically onions, carrots, and green onions – absorb this vibrant sauce and provide textural contrast to the squid.

Many restaurants make the mistake of allowing too much liquid to accumulate during cooking, resulting in a watery, diluted sauce. Choi-ga avoids this by using high heat and proper stir-frying techniques, creating a sauce that clings perfectly to the squid and vegetables.

How Do You Properly Enjoy Korean Seafood Dishes?

For those new to Korean cuisine, understanding how to enjoy these dishes enhances the experience. Here’s how locals approach these seafood specialties:

Hwangtae Dishes

When eating Hwangtae-guk (soup), Koreans typically pair it with rice, either adding some rice directly to the soup or alternating between spoonfuls of soup and bites of rice. The soup is meant to be eaten hot, allowing its subtle flavors to fully develop.

For Hwangtae-gui (grilled), the fish is often wrapped in lettuce leaves along with a small amount of ssamjang (a thick, spicy paste), rice, and perhaps a sliver of raw garlic or green chili pepper. This creates a perfect bite that balances the various flavors and textures.

Ojingeo Bokkeum

Ojingeo Bokkeum is traditionally enjoyed with a bowl of steamed rice. The proper way to eat it is to take a spoonful of rice and top it with a piece of the spicy squid and vegetables. Some diners like to mix the sauce from the Ojingeo Bokkeum directly into their rice, creating what Koreans call "deopbap" (덮밥) – essentially a rice bowl topped with the main dish.

At Choi-ga, both dishes come with an array of banchan (반찬, side dishes) that complement the main courses. These typically include kimchi, seasoned vegetables, and perhaps a small fish dish. These sides are meant to be enjoyed throughout the meal, cleansing the palate between bites of the main dishes.

Choi-ga’s Culinary Philosophy

What sets Choi-ga apart from other seafood restaurants in the region is their unwavering commitment to traditional methods and regional ingredients. The restaurant sources its Hwangtae from the Gangwon mountain regions known for producing the finest quality dried pollack, while their squid comes directly from local fishermen working the waters of the East Sea.

The restaurant’s interior reflects this dedication to tradition, with simple wooden furnishings and historic photographs of Gangwon’s fishing communities adorning the walls. The atmosphere is unpretentious and welcoming – exactly what you’d expect from a family-owned establishment that prioritizes food quality over flashy presentation.

Many visitors note that eating at Choi-ga feels like being welcomed into a Korean grandmother’s home, with recipes passed down through generations and prepared with the care and attention that only comes from deep cultural pride.

Planning Your Visit

Choi-ga is located at Wonam Haksapyeong-gil 28, 3-dong, Toseong-myeon, Goseong-gun, Gangwon Province (강원 고성군 토성면 원암학사평길 28 3동). The restaurant is open daily from 11:00 AM to 9:00 PM, though it’s always wise to call ahead if you’re planning to visit during off-peak seasons or holidays.

While Goseong-gun might be off the typical tourist path, it’s worth the journey for food enthusiasts seeking authentic regional Korean cuisine. The area is also known for its beautiful coastal scenery and proximity to natural attractions, making it an excellent day trip from larger cities in Gangwon Province.

For those traveling from Seoul, several intercity buses run to Goseong-gun daily, with the journey taking approximately 3-4 hours depending on traffic. From the Goseong bus terminal, a short taxi ride will bring you to Choi-ga.

Pro tip: If you’re planning to visit during summer (June-August) or during Korean holidays, it’s recommended to make a reservation in advance, as the restaurant can become quite busy with local tourists.

Experiencing Choi-ga’s masterful preparations of Hwangtae and Ojingeo Bokkeum offers more than just a delicious meal – it provides insight into Gangwon Province’s rich culinary heritage and the importance of regional specialties in Korean food culture. Whether you’re a seafood enthusiast or simply curious about authentic Korean cuisine beyond the familiar dishes found in urban centers, Choi-ga promises a memorable dining experience that captures the essence of Korea’s east coast traditions.

Have you experienced traditional Hwangtae or Ojingeo Bokkeum before? What regional Korean specialties have you discovered in your culinary adventures? Share your experiences in the comments below!