Song Il-hyeong's Handmade Fish Cakes: A 44-Year Tradition at Anyang Central Market

Colorful Korean Eomuk Made by a Master | Anyang Market Street Food

Table of Contents

1. The Master Behind the Craft: Song Il-hyeong’s Journey
2. What Makes These Fish Cakes Uniquely Korean?
3. What Are the Key Ingredients That Create This Flavor?
4. How Would You Describe the Taste and Spice Level?
5. What Should First-Time Eaters Know?
6. Complete Menu Guide: From Five-Color Eomuk to Premium Steamed Varieties
7. Visiting Song Il-hyeong’s Fish Cake Stall
8. Nationwide Delivery Options

The Master Behind the Craft: Song Il-hyeong’s Journey

Song Il-hyeong began learning the art of fish cake making at just 17 years old, starting in factory settings where he mastered the fundamental techniques that would define his life’s work. What began as employment for survival evolved into a passionate pursuit of perfection. After decades of refining his craft, Song established his stall at Anyang Central Market, transforming a humble market space into a destination for eomuk enthusiasts from across Korea.

His reputation spread beyond local recognition when Korean television networks took notice. Appearances on prestigious programs including SBS’s Life’s Master (생활의 달인), KBS’s VJ Special Forces, MBC’s Live Tonight, KBS’s 2TV Live Information, and EBS’s Extreme Jobs have cemented his status as one of Korea’s foremost fish cake artisans. The "Extreme Jobs" feature particularly highlighted how his remarkable hand speed—shaping over 30 varieties without using a single mold—captivates passersby who stop simply to watch the mesmerizing production process.

What distinguishes Song’s approach from commercial fish cake production is his unwavering commitment to quality ingredients. While most factory-produced eomuk contains 50-60% fish content padded with flour and starches, Song uses premium sea bream (domi, 도미) as his primary ingredient with minimal flour addition. This results in fish cakes with superior bounce and a clean, authentic seafood flavor that commercial products simply cannot replicate.

The stall operates as a multi-generational family business, with Song’s wife and children working alongside him to meet constant customer demand. This family dedication ensures consistency while preserving the artisanal traditions that have made the business famous. Even on weekday afternoons, queues form as visitors wait patiently for their chance to purchase these exceptional fish cakes—testament to a reputation built through four decades of excellence.

What Makes These Fish Cakes Uniquely Korean?

Eomuk (어묵) holds a special place in Korean culinary culture that extends far beyond simple street food. The term combines "eo" (fish) and "muk" (mashed food), literally describing its composition while understating its cultural significance. Evidence suggests Koreans have consumed fish-based dishes since the Joseon Dynasty, with mentions appearing in historical texts like Jeungbo Sallim Gyeongje from the late 1700s.

The modern Korean fish cake industry took root in Busan during the 1950s post-Korean War period, when affordable protein sources were desperately needed. Fish, being abundant in this major port city, became the foundation for a new industry that would grow to define Korean comfort food culture. Busan’s fish cakes became renowned for their high fish content—often 70% or more—setting quality standards that artisans like Song Il-hyeong continue to uphold.

What sets Song’s eomuk apart from both commercial Korean varieties and Japanese-influenced versions is the emphasis on sea bream (domisal). While many producers use Alaska pollock or less expensive white fish, sea bream offers a more refined, naturally sweet flavor profile that elevates the entire eating experience. Combined with his signature "ice box method"—keeping fish paste in ice-filled containers throughout the shaping process to maintain freshness and texture—Song creates fish cakes with an unmistakable quality difference.

The cultural significance of eomuk in Korea extends to weather and seasonality. Fish cakes remain especially popular during colder months, when steaming bowls of eomuk-tang (fish cake soup) provide warmth and comfort. Street vendors with their bubbling broth pots become gathering spots where Koreans of all ages congregate, making eomuk consumption as much a social ritual as a culinary one.

What Are the Key Ingredients That Create This Flavor?

Understanding Song Il-hyeong’s fish cakes requires knowing the three ingredients that define their exceptional quality:

Sea Bream (Domi, 도미) This premium white fish serves as the foundation of Song’s recipe, providing delicate sweetness and a clean oceanic flavor without the fishiness associated with lower-quality alternatives. Sea bream offers firm flesh that creates the bouncy, chewy texture Koreans describe as "tangeul-tangeul" (탱글탱글)—an elastic quality that resists the teeth before yielding satisfyingly. The fish is also an excellent source of lean protein and omega-3 fatty acids, making these fish cakes nutritionally valuable as well as delicious.

Minimal Flour Content While commercial fish cakes often contain substantial flour as a filler to reduce costs, Song uses only the minimum necessary for binding. This approach allows the natural fish flavor to shine through while maintaining the characteristic bounce that distinguishes quality eomuk. The result is a cleaner taste and more substantial bite compared to starchy commercial alternatives.

Natural Vegetable Colorings For his famous five-color healthy eomuk, Song incorporates spinach (green), paprika (red), purple sweet potato (purple), and pumpkin (yellow) directly into the fish paste. These aren’t artificial colorings but actual vegetable purees that add subtle flavor notes alongside visual appeal. This creative approach makes his colorful fish cakes particularly popular with families whose children might otherwise avoid vegetables—the vibrant colors attract young eaters while delivering hidden nutritional benefits.

How Would You Describe the Taste and Spice Level?

Song Il-hyeong’s fish cakes offer a remarkably clean, refined flavor profile that surprises visitors expecting typical street food. The primary taste sensation is mild umami with natural seafood sweetness, followed by a subtle richness from the sea bream’s quality protein content.

Spice Level: 1-2 on a 10-point scale for most varieties

The base eomuk contains no chili whatsoever, making it accessible to visitors of all spice tolerances, including children and those sensitive to heat. However, the menu includes specific spicy options for those seeking more excitement:

The Ttangcho (Chili) variety rates approximately 4-5 on the spice scale, incorporating Korean green chili peppers that provide moderate heat with bright, fresh pepper flavor. The Perilla Leaf variety offers a uniquely Korean herbal note—fragrant and slightly minty—without any spice. For those craving richer flavors, the Cheese variety delivers creamy indulgence that balances beautifully with the fish’s natural taste.

Primary Flavor Notes:

1. Clean oceanic sweetness from premium sea bream
2. Subtle umami depth from natural fish proteins
3. Light sesame notes in certain varieties
4. Fresh vegetable undertones in five-color options

Texture: The defining characteristic is that signature "tangeul-tangeul" bounce—chewy yet tender, with a satisfying resistance that gives way to a smooth interior. When served fresh from the fryer, the exterior offers a light crispness that contrasts beautifully with the pillowy inside.

What Should First-Time Eaters Know?

Approaching Song Il-hyeong’s stall for the first time can feel overwhelming given the variety of options and the constant stream of customers. Here’s what visitors should understand before ordering:

Proper Eating Method Fish cakes purchased here are meant to be eaten immediately while hot. The skewered hot-bar varieties are designed for walking and eating—simply hold the stick and bite directly, savoring the contrast between the crispy exterior and bouncy interior. For packaged varieties intended for home cooking, brief reheating in an air fryer (180°C for 5 minutes) or pan-frying revives the texture beautifully.

What to Expect on First Taste The initial bite reveals clean seafood flavor without any of the processed, artificial notes common in convenience store fish cakes. Many first-time visitors express surprise at how "fresh" and "non-fishy" quality handmade eomuk tastes. The texture provides immediate feedback—that elastic bounce confirming you’re eating something made with real fish rather than starch-padded substitutes.

Cultural Considerations for Foreign Diners Unlike formal Korean dining where banchan (side dishes) arrive in multiple small plates, market eating is casual and immediate. There’s no need for utensils beyond the skewer already embedded in your fish cake. Payment happens before receiving your order, and taking your purchase to enjoy while exploring the market is perfectly acceptable—indeed, it’s the local way.

Recommended First Order Start with the classic Premium Steamed Eomuk (Sunsal Jjim Eomuk) to experience pure sea bream flavor without distracting additions. Then branch into the Five-Color Healthy Eomuk for visual appeal and vegetable notes. Finally, try a skewered hot-bar variety like Cheese or Chili for the full street food experience.

Complete Menu Guide: From Five-Color Eomuk to Premium Steamed Varieties

Song Il-hyeong’s stall offers approximately 30 varieties of handmade fish cakes, organized into several categories:

Instant Hot-Bar Skewers (₩2,000-₩2,500 each)

These ready-to-eat skewered fish cakes are the stall’s most popular items for immediate consumption:

1. Perilla Leaf (Kkaennip): Wrapped in fragrant perilla leaves for herbal complexity
2. Chili (Ttangcho): Moderately spicy with fresh Korean green chilies
3. Cheese: Filled with melted cheese for rich, creamy contrast
4. Rice Cake (Tteok): Combined with chewy Korean rice cake pieces
5. Sausage: Paired with Korean-style sausage for meaty satisfaction
6. Seafood: Enhanced with additional seafood pieces like shrimp and squid

Five-Color Healthy Eomuk

These naturally colored fish cakes incorporate vegetable purees:

1. Green (Spinach): Mild, slightly earthy undertone
2. Red (Paprika): Sweet pepper notes
3. Purple (Purple Sweet Potato): Subtly sweet
4. Yellow (Pumpkin): Gentle squash flavor
5. White (Plain): Pure sea bream expression

Premium Steamed Eomuk (Sunsal Jjim Eomuk)

The pinnacle of Song’s craft, these pure white sea bream cakes showcase the highest fish content with minimal additions. Known for their clean, sophisticated taste, they’re particularly prized for preparing homemade eomuk-tang soup or enjoying sliced as banchan.

Bulk Packages for Home Cooking

For those wanting to recreate market flavors at home, packaged varieties suitable for soup, stir-frying, or reheating are available starting at ₩5,000 per pack. These maintain quality for several days when refrigerated and freeze well for longer storage.

Visiting Song Il-hyeong’s Fish Cake Stall

Location Details

Song Il-hyeong’s Handmade Fish Cake Master (송일형 수제어묵 명인) operates within Anyang Central Market, one of Korea’s largest traditional markets with over 1,150 vendors spread across multiple buildings and streets. The market has served Anyang residents since 1961, making it not just a shopping destination but a living piece of local heritage.

Address: 119 Jangnae-ro, Manan-gu, Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (경기도 안양시 만안구 장내로 119 안양중앙시장)

Market Hours: Generally 9:30 AM to 8:00 PM daily (individual vendor hours may vary)

Getting There

By subway, take Line 1 or 4 to Anyang Station—the market is just a 3-minute walk from the station, making it one of the most accessible traditional markets in the greater Seoul metropolitan area. For drivers, a public parking lot adjacent to the market offers 15 minutes free parking with additional time at ₩400 per 30 minutes.

What to Know Before You Go

The stall operates with an open-kitchen concept where visitors can watch Song and his family craft fish cakes in real-time. Peak times (weekends and late afternoons) often involve brief waits, but most customers consider watching the rapid-fire production process entertainment rather than inconvenience.

Payment: Cash preferred, though the stall accepts card payments Best Time to Visit: Weekday mornings for shortest lines Nearby Attractions: The market’s famous sundae (Korean blood sausage) alley and Samwoo Dakgangjeong (fried chicken) are within walking distance

Nationwide Delivery Options

For those unable to visit Anyang in person, Song Il-hyeong’s fish cakes are available through nationwide delivery:

Direct Phone Orders: +82-31-449-5981

The delivery service allows Korean food enthusiasts across the country to experience these artisanal fish cakes at home. Orders placed by 3:00 PM typically ship same-day, with delivery within the Anyang area possible by 5:00-7:00 PM. Nationwide shipping reaches most destinations within 1-2 business days.

Delivery Fees: Approximately ₩4,000 for local Anyang delivery; varies by region for nationwide shipping

Recommended for Delivery:

1. Premium Steamed Eomuk (travels well, versatile for cooking)
2. Five-Color Healthy Eomuk Set (makes an impressive gift)
3. Mixed variety packages for sampling multiple flavors

Experience Four Decades of Mastery

In an age of mass production and convenience foods, Song Il-hyeong’s stall stands as a testament to what dedication and quality ingredients can achieve. His 44-year commitment to handcrafted excellence has created something increasingly rare: food that tells a story with every bite.

Whether you’re a Korean food enthusiast seeking authentic traditional market experiences, a traveler exploring Gyeonggi Province, or simply someone who appreciates craftsmanship in any form, Song Il-hyeong’s Handmade Fish Cakes offer a delicious connection to Korean culinary tradition. The lines at his stall—even on ordinary weekday afternoons—speak louder than any television appearance could.

Planning to experience this legendary fish cake artisan for yourself? Consider visiting Anyang Central Market on a weekday morning for the fullest experience, or order delivery to bring a taste of this 44-year tradition directly to your table. Share your visit with others who appreciate authentic Korean food—because discoveries this good deserve to be shared.